July 1, 2009

Flying V Australia

Living the high life

Living the high life

Flying between Australia and LA can be a killer – or not – as I discovered on a recent flight with V Australia

Richard Branson’s new airline is gaining a loyal following with travellers who long for the days when flying was fun and appreciate a cheap deal as V Australia fares are extremely competitive.   

Here’s a rundown on what to expect based on a Business Class LAX/BNE flight in June 2009.

Boarding

Fast, friendly and efficient.  Business Class passengers can use of the Alaskan Airlines lounge prior to the flight (nothing special but a much better option than waiting with everyone else at the gate). 

Hint: Board sooner rather than later as the on-board Moet and great service beats what’s available in the lounge hands down. 

Goodies

Bulgari amenities kit; you name it, it’s in there (including perfume, very nice), soft black pyjamas and long socks with a separate toe are teamed with funky V Australia thongs (for American readers, these are Aussie ones that go on your feet, okay?).  

You also get another little something towards the end of the flight but I don’t want to spoil the surprise (here’s a hint: Jørn Utzon). 

Cabin

Purple colour theme and kind of retro; it’s a definite ‘look’ but it works.   Business Class configuration is 2-3-2 which is great if you’re travelling with someone (unlike some Business Class cabins which appear to be designed exclusively for single travellers; not fun if you’re travelling with someone special and cannot even see them).  

V Australia Bar

V Australia Bar

The sit down bar area is extremely convivial and, despite my initial concerns, doesn’t get too rowdy for those trying to work or sleep.  It’s nice to stop by for a chat even if you don’t fancy a drink.  Loved the fresh flowers on the bar and around the cabin. 

The cabin lighting changes during the flight to help your body adjust to the different time zones and there are stars in the sky (a.k.a. the cabin ceiling) when the lights are dimmed right down as people turn in for the night. 

Hint: Ladies, there is a ‘Ladies Only’ toilet at the front of the Business Class cabin on the right hand side.  Cloth hand towels, good lighting, nice amenities (and no one leaves the seat up). 

Dining

Some of the best food I’ve had in the air, especially the steak which was restaurant quality.  There are five courses available but you can choose to eat less or have a light meal instead if you prefer.  Service was a little slow on this flight compared to the one from Australia (although this wasn’t surprising as Business Class was almost full). 

Hint: Ask nicely if you can be served in the first round of meals if you’re keen to have dinner then go straight to sleep.

Sleeping

The lie-flat bed was the star of the show for me; made up by the crew on request and it really was ‘lie flat’ (as opposed to the ‘lie on a slight angle and slide around all night’ bed).   I slept for a solid 7 hours and arrived home with zero jet lag (never happened before; very happy as was my family). 

Hint: Try to get a seat in Row 5 which is separate from the rest of the Business Class cabin and can be closed off with curtains for complete privacy.  This row has been designed for VIPs (which, of course, means you!)

July 1, 2009

Life’s a beach in LA

Mention LA and most people think ‘Rodeo Drive and Hollywood’ but the City of Angels also boasts fabulous beaches.  

They’re wide and welcoming with a funky vibe and close enough to downtown LA for a quick trip (or a longer visit; once you discover the LA beach scene you won’t want to leave).

Layover at the beach

Layover at Manhattan Beach

Layover at Manhattan Beach

LA airport is looking mighty swish after a $720m upgrade but no airport’s good enough to warrant hanging around there for hours.  The good news is a layover at LAX is the perfect excuse to visit Manhattan Beach (and it’s a cheap day out at just $3 per person). 

Here’s the cheapest and easiest way to hit the beach.  Take a free airport shuttle to the nearby Sheraton Gateway airport hotel, walk outside and look for the Ocean Express Trolley Service bus stop.   The trip to Manhattan Beach takes around 15 minutes and, as the trolley bus only has a few stops, it is virtually impossible to get lost. 

Manhattan Beach

This impressive stretch of sand is only 3 miles from LAX so it’s possible to dip your toes in the water even during a short layout. 

The beach is impressively wide,  spotlessly clean and the 928 ft long pier provides a great spot to watch the surfers and check out the surrounding real estate (beautiful houses with an average cost of around $2m).   Don’t miss the Manhattan Ice Creamery, an old fashioned sweet shop and homemade ice cream parlour, that’s a local favourite.

Venice Beach

Sure, downtown LA has the shopping and the stars but Venice Beach is fun and funky with plenty of street cred (and, of course, there’s that great beach!).   There is plenty of free entertainment around here although people watching alone will likely keep you amused for hours.   Think magicians, rappers, dancers, tattooists, painters, mimes, fortune tellers and more besides …

Stylin' up on a Segway

Stylin' up on a Segway

Venice Beach has a skate park, a fantastic kids’ playground and Muscle Beach where you can work out for $5 an hour.  NBA players frequently conduct free basketball shooting clinics at the beachside courts or there’s a roller disco on Friday and Saturday nights (free with your own skates; wheels are also available for hire) or you can cycle, rollerblade or Segway along the 22 mile boardwalk.

My choice would have to be the Segway Tour which involves zipping along the famous boardwalk on a personal transporter – imagine a small, two wheeled platform that can travel up to 12 miles an hour (full training is provided; they’re very easy to ride).   Be prepared for plenty of ‘Hey, where did you hire that?’ and ‘Wow, waaaaayyyy cool!’ as you zoom along wearing a big grin.   It’s possible to travel up to 24 miles on a Segway without recharging so you can cover a lot of ground.  A guided tour costs $75 for two hours and is money well spent – this is one of the best tours I’ve ever done, anywhere.

Working out at Venice Beach

Working out at Venice Beach

Accommodation at Venice Beach ranges from grungy to groovy and everything in between.  At the groovy end of the scale is Hotel Erwin, a funky design hotel overlooking Venice Beach, with amazing views from its rooftop bar.  During summer this turns into an outdoor movie theatre and also hosts card nights and bingo sessions (with hip cocktails and free entertainment courtesy of the passing parade along the boardwalk). 

The hotel employed local artists specialising in ‘urban art’ to decorate the rooms – think shower screens with cool graffiti and original framed works you’ll want to take home.  Larger rooms have a kitchenette which comes in handy as there are great farmers’ markets nearby.  It’s surprisingly cheap at around $140 per night and the hotel is less than 200 metres from the beach; most rooms offer views of the famous boardwalk. 

Santa Monica

The historic Santa Monica pier (circa 1908) plays host to an amusement park which is free to visit and especially pretty when lit up at night. 

Sunset at Santa Monica

Sunset at Santa Monica

Parking is free for up to two hours at one of the nearby public parking stations and the shopping at the nearby Third Street Promenade is first rate.   Best buys are clothes, sunglasses and shoes; grab a bite to eat at one of the restaurants lining the outdoor mall (plenty of choice; a great spot for people watching). 

The LA beach scene offers something for everyone.

June 2, 2009

Shopping in a Syrian souk

Shopping in Aleppo

Shopping in Aleppo

Traditional Syrian souks (bazaars or markets) haven’t changed much since they first began trading hundreds of years ago. 

Souk Al-Hamidiyeh in Damascus and the Aleppo souk are equally famous although both offer a different shopping experience. 

The Aleppo souk is a maze of passageways (many of which are still made of dirt) and goods are conveyed using wheelbarrows and donkeys.  It is covered by stone archways for about 12 kms which makes it the longest covered souk in the Middle East.  This souk in Syria’s north is slightly less touristy than the one in Damascus (although neither are touristy compared to similar bazaars around the world).

The Aleppo souk also features beautiful two storey Khans (inns) where merchants used to stay as far back as the 12th century.   Most are decorated with elaborate tiles and have high ceilings and heavy wooden doors with ornate locks.  Some now house market stalls but others remain empty and are wonderful places to explore.

In Damascus you will find Souk Al-Hamidiyeh which runs 500 metres from east to west and is more ‘ordered’ than the souk in Aleppo.  Souk Al-Hamidiyeh has an amazing array of sexy lingerie guaranteed to make even the most adventurous lover blush and it is here you can find the best ice cream in Syria (second shop on the right, look for the crowds).   This souk is built on the remains of an ancient Roman fortress, some of which is still visible as you stroll through the souk.

You’ll need at least a day to explore each souk thoroughly.  Keep a look out for hand made goods and allow plenty of time to smell, taste and touch the myriad treasures on offer.  Chatting with local merchants is perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of shopping in Syria and something you’ll remember long after you return home.